For enchiladas: - 1 large white onion, cut crosswise into 1/2 in thick rounds 2 bell peppers, quaretered 3/4 lb zuccini, cut lengthwie into 1/4 inch thick slices 12 soft corn tortillas 1/2 cup vegetable oil 6 ounces crumbled queso fresco or ricotta salata

- For pumpkin-seed salsa: 1 tablespoon finely chopped serrano chile, including seeds 2 garlic cloves, minced 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1 1/3 cups raw green (hulled) pumpkin seeds (pepitas) 1/2 cup vegetable oil 2 cups chopped cilantro 1 1/2 cups water

- For tomato salsa: 2 medium tomatoes, chopped 1/4 cup finely chopped white onion 2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh serrano chile, including seeds 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice garnish: cilantro leaves

Prepare a gas grill for direct-heat cooking over medium heat. Preheat oven to 350°F .

Secure each onion round with a wooden pick for grilling. Oil grill rack, then grill vegetables, covered, turning occasionally, until tender (6 to 8 minutes for bell peppers and zucchini; 10 to 12 minutes for onion), transferring to a bowl.

Wrap tortillas in stacks of 6 in foil and heat in oven, about 15 minutes.

Cook chile, garlic, cumin, and pumpkin seeds in oil in a 10-inch heavy skillet over medium-high heat, stirring, until seeds pop, 4 to 5 minutes. Transfer 3 tablespoons seeds with a slotted spoon to a bowl and reserve. Purée remaining seeds and oil with cilantro, water, and 1/2 teaspoon salt in a blender until smooth.

Stir together tomatoes, onion, chile, lime juice, and 1/4 teaspoon salt.  Cut vegetables into strips. Spread 2 teaspoons pumpkin-seed salsa on each warm tortilla and top with some of grilled vegetables, then roll up. Heat oil (1/2 cup) in a 12-inch heavy skillet over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Fry enchiladas, seam side down first, in 2 batches, turning once, until lightly browned and heated through, about 2 minutes per batch. Transfer enchiladas to plates, then drizzle with remaining pumpkin-seed salsa and sprinkle with reserved seeds and cheese. Serve with tomato salsa.

adapted recipe from